Sunday, June 26, 2016

She's Got Legs - Part 2 Burda Pant 9 2010 108

I loved the clean, preppy look of these Boden pants that popped up in my google search for pants.



Boden is a British clothing retailer selling primarily online, mail order and catalogue. I remember getting a unsolicited Boden catalog a couple years back and being impressed by the bright, modern patterned fabrics used for classic styles of clothing.  At the time the European sizing put me off ordering. They now have a USA website.
 
This style has a contour waistband, slant pockets, and slim ankle length legs.  They are available in a wide range of colors. The web site  calls this version  the " TIPPED PANT - A fashion-forward take on the definitive tailored pant. Featuring luxurious detail around the curved cuffs and pockets, these  are just that little bit different. "   I particularly liked the two color trim on the shaped hems of the legs and the pockets opening. 


 
 My best fitting pant pattern, the Eureka Pants that Fit, have tapered, not slim legs. I found a Burda pattern with the style of leg I wanted,  Burda 9 2010 108, and combined the two patterns,  using the Eureka pant pattern above the crotch level and the shape of the Burda pants below the crotch. 
 
The pattern is downloadable from this link.  Burda pants-09/2010 108
The fabric  I used is “Dress Denim” from JoAnn Fabrics, a blend of poly rayon and lycra navy with a dark microdot weave.
 
The trim is ¼ inch  red and white stripes of bias binding applied to the pocket opening and the shaped hem.

To replicate the trim I used purchased bias binding.   1 package white bias tape extra wide double fold and 1 package red double fold bias tape quilt binding.  It was super easy to apply and looks just like the inspiration trim. 

First step was to cut the white binding in half along the middle fold line. One side will be ½ inch wide, the other will be slightly wider than ½ inch. It is folded this way to facilitate the application method using the package instructions.  I did not use this method.

 
 
First step was to cut the white binding in half along the middle fold line.
 

 
Lay ½ in  width  binding with cut edge along cut edge of fabric.


 Top stitch  close to folded edge with white thread. 



 Lay one folded edge of red bias binding ¼ “ from topstitched edge of white binding. 



 Top stitch close to folded edge with red thread.  

 
 
 
 
 Wrap excess red binding around the cut edge to the  back side of fabric and hand sew in place, using white top stitching line as a guide.

 
 
Shaped Hems
 
I hemmed my pants  and applied the binding to the hemmed edge. I could have eliminated the hem and applied the binding to a cut edge of the bottom of the pants . I kept the hem because I wanted some firmness and weight at the bottom of the leg. The last 3 inches of the outside leg  seam  was left unsewn. After hemming I made a curved template that I used to cut the curved shape at the bottom of the  side seam.   I applied the white and red binding to the hem edge curving around the corners and along the side seams. Where the raw ends of the bias meet the side seam I  treated the bias  like welting on a pocket opening. 


 
Y cut at end of seam  before trim is secured
Hem trim
 
 


Pocket trim


 
 
 
Sewing friends have commented that I have a nice pair of pants whose colors are appropriate for wearing on  patriotic occasions; Memorial Day, 4th of July, and  Military Appreciation Fridays at work.
 

23 comments:

  1. This is so cool! Great job adding the trim

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  2. Those pants came out really nice and you look fabulous in them.

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  3. You did an amazing job. The pants look great on you. Thank you for sharing how you did this. It is definitely one for my memory bank.

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  4. Gorgeous pant detail. Thanks for sharing how you made it work! These look fantastic on you!

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  5. Very high end looking! The fit is great. Those pants are some of my strongest reasons for wanting to sew better.

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  6. Very cool and very flattering! Love these on you, Audrey!

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  7. those are so great - I am envious of your pant fitting skills. I love them.

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  8. These pants look fantastic. A "little" detail (that takes a certain amount to execute) takes a garment to whole different level.

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  9. First of all, I was OBSESSED with these pants for months. But, couldn't justify the cost. Second, you did an outstanding job. Finally, thank you for sharing the technique!

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  10. They are so cute! Love the detail.

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  11. I am completely in love with the two color trim. Your pants turned out spectacular!

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  12. Amazing. You sew so beautifully. Must check out Boden catalogues now !

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  13. Those are so nice! I love the detail, and you executed it perfectly!

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  14. great looking pants! excellent job!

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  15. Thanks for the detail of how you created the trim. These pants are very attractive and very much like the inspirational pants. Fit looks perfect

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  16. I absolutely adore this! Brilliant RTW idea borrowed. And yeah, totally wearable at any time of the year.

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  17. I'm envious of your pants! You are very skilled.

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  18. Those are fantastic pants! They look perfectly sewn. The outfit you put together is gorgeous and looks really good on you!

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